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Rico Mex South of MarketOMR: 6.67
53 Stevenson
cross street: 1st St./2nd St.
ph. 415/543-FOOD
Map Visits: 2
Rico Mex boasts the world’s coolest telephone number since that kid back in high school snagged 226-STUD for his private line at home. This taqueria’s predecessor, Si Señor!, made headlines for all the wrong reasons in 2006 when ownership was caught short-changing a number of employees on their wages. Not much later, the restaurant's name changed to Rico Mex. Hmm. It’s also the sort of place where you hear the microwave oven get a lot of use during your visit. Request a foil wrap! Breakfast and bottled beer available, as well as horchata that sort of tastes like bubble gum. Closed evenings, weekends, and holidays. Cash only.

Will My Health Be Violated?

11/03/09Super Breakfast (Ham w/ Eggs)$5.056.67 Mustaches
Swish: temperature (10); beans (9); spiciness (8); burstage abatement (8)
Shrug: tortilla (7); ingredient mix (7); eggs (6)
Clang: size (5); meat (5); vegetables (5); sauciness (5); cheese (4)
Intangibility bonus: 1 (of 2)

Hot bites galore, top-notch refried beans, and a solid grasp of spicy fundamentals sure didn’t get this wee and floppy breakfast burrito too far, did it? As great as they tasted, those refrieds played far too significant a role here, overshadowing other purported major players such as scrambled eggs (overmatched), diced ham (a rumor at best), and pico de gallo (fully absent). The omelet portion of our meal was cooked up on demand, but it didn’t matter like it should have since so much slurping was required in order to stave off the dreaded salsa roja overspill. Cheese results were the most desultory of all, with unmelted mini-grates of Jack and cheddar bringing down the room at nearly every turn. And when guacamole is the sole veggie-reminiscent inclusion, odds are strong that trouble’s a-brewin’ inside that foil. In fact, a burrito this troubled barely deserves a review with a proper conclu—

03/28/07Super Chile Colorado Pork$6.897.17 Mustaches
Swish: meat (9); spiciness (9); rice (8); beans (8); cheese (8); vegetables (8); ingredient mix (8)
Shrug: size (7); temperature (7); sauciness (6)
Clang: burstage abatement (4); tortilla (3)
Intangibility bonus: 1 (of 2)

Good grief, what a mess. Absent the reinforcement of two layers of foil and our "mad" containment "skillz," this burrito would have surely turned into a plate meal in its early stages. Nothing speaks more to its off-putting sloppiness than the 15 or so napkins we went through while slogging our way through this somewhat short and mushy slab. Overall taste here, however, held up its end of the bargain, from the excellent shredded pork – robust and sharp throughout – on through the flammable salsa roja, solidly performing rice/beans foundation, and quietly contributing melted grates of cheddar. Avocado slices (80 cents extra) also pitched in positively, although we would have appreciated a bigger shot of pico de gallo. The lengthy tortilla cleave didn’t help the temperature issues any, but at least there weren’t any cold bites. And the ingredient mix, for all the construction woes, was remarkably graceful. Still, shoddy slab-architecture like cannot and will not be tolerated. The taqueria is no place for high anxiety.