the Intestinal Apocalypse Monthly Apparel Bazaar

Frontera Taq., La Western AdditionOMR: 7.92
1836 Divisadero
cross street: Bush/Pine
ph. 415/346-3515
Map Visits: 1
One look at this slab shop's menu — it's etched in marker on some boards nailed to the wall — and you may wonder how a bunch of fifth-graders managed to open a business. Known as Ocean Taq. for years upon years, this horribly laid-out taqueria boasts a hilariously huge burrito (the Jumbo) and one of the fieriest habanero salsas you'll find this side of Satan's Magick Kingdom, but that doesn't mean you should come here when you can instead hit up far superior El Burrito Express on this same block of Divisadero...unless it's Sunday, when El Burrito Express is closed and La Frontera isn't. Breakfast and bottled beer available. Credit cards accepted. (New photo forthcoming.)

Will My Health Be Violated?

05/21/13Super Chile Verde Pork$7.507.92 Mustaches
Swish: tortilla (9); cheese (9); spiciness (9); temperature (9); burstage abatement (9); size (8); meat (8)
Shrug: beans (7); vegetables (7); ingredient mix (7); rice (6); sauciness (6)
Clang: no elements clanged
Intangibility bonus: 1 (of 2)

Why didn't this otherwise respectable burrito clear our critical eight-mustache hurdle? Look no further than its drab intangible charm, as there were plenty of other strongly performing elements here to warrant recommendability. Like what? Like the smartly grilled tortilla, mostly feverish spiciness, and all-melted cheese, as well as the twin foundations of hot bites and solid construction. The stewed pork, meanwhile, was the most flavorful item on hand, with a charmingly shred-friendly texture to it. But there were plenty of shrugs to go around as well, from the ordinary refried beans and sub-ordinary rice to the neither-here-nor-there ingredient mix and occasional sauce-drips down the side of the tortilla (boo); indeed, some slurping was required. And as much as we enjoyed the aforementioned pork, there really should have been more of it. This sizable but soft dunch didn't quite put it all together.