Our grizzled judges panel can’t recall too many 7.25-mustache slabs on Burritoeater record deserving of the maximum two-mustache intangibility bonus. But Pancho’s has always kind of rotated in its own goofy orbit — there’s something about this place. Few other taquerias in this rice-happy town know how to go this easy on the universal grain...too bad the rice wasn’t more outstanding here. The chicken remained quietly dull throughout, while the choice of cheddar was an expected turn-off, although at least it was nicely melted. And boo to the overly chewy and ungrilled tortilla, opposite-of-spectacular whole pinto beans, and dimwitted absence of spice. Now for the "Positive Jam" portion of tonight’s show: Thumbs-up to the champ veggie contingent, anchored by much green bell pepper and real glurgy guacamole. Also, onions! Lots of them, grilled. Delicious. Pancho’s salsa verde provided plenty of flavor all burrito long, while the wise ingredient mix ensured that the sub-stellar elements got propped up by the couple great ones. The basics (burstage abatement, temperature) were on the money, and that never hurts the cause. Despite all these ups and downs, intangible cred somehow barreled through the roof. We’ve been at this game for awhile now, and yet some nights at the taqueria still can’t be fully explained.

Its just-north-of-lukewarm temperatures could have used a post-construction stint in the kitchen steamer, and although it had the grilled look and fragrance of a champion, Pancho’s chile tortilla couldn’t sidestep its overly tough texture. But as lists of burrito grievances go, ours is pretty brief here - and nobody was more surprised at this than our previously against-Pancho’s panel. The biggest sources of satisfaction: Robust vegetables, marvelously pasty black beans, stellar sauciness, and a harmonious ingredient mix from which we could all learn a thing or two about getting along. Pancho’s smoke-enhanced barbecue sauce contributed bite in and bite out to this slab’s greater good, while it also covered for the non-descript steak’s deficiencies; a set of well-thickened guacamole provided further sludge-joy. And we’re always big fans of smart construction, politely boomin’ spice, and thick cuts of chopped onion. For the first time, we emerged from Pancho’s sated, eight mustaches and all.