When Ms. Slabmaker Gal at La Rosa got the burrito-production party started by tossing our tortilla onto the hot grill, we reckoned we'd have a nine-mustache wrap in our midst soon thereafter. Imagine our surprise, then, when the tortilla turned out to be a strangely sticky disappointment. And yet, this weighty slab of foods managed to crest our eight-mustache line of quality, an achievement due in no small part to its thorough sauciness, full run of hot bites, dependable construction, and combustible level of spice. The meat itself may have lacked hammer-wielding flavor, but its grilled onion accompaniment compensated nicely. Elsewhere, cheese was well-melted but never turned into the steady contributor we hoped for, while the capable refried beans were simply overwhelmed by the sectioned-off rice and raging, take-all-comers salsa. Intangible charms pushed their way to the top, though, and we all went home from the taqueria feeling a little better about ourselves.