Swish: spiciness (10); vegetables (9); temperature (9); burstage abatement (9); size (8); sauciness (8)
Shrug: meat (7); beans (7); tortilla (6); rice (6); ingredient mix (6)
Clang: cheese (5)
Intangibility bonus: 2 (of 2)

Our first trip to Jasmin’s in over three years resulted in another quietly effective burrito we still wouldn’t go out of our way for. Hunky girth served as an introduction to this slab’s faults and charms: a brutally steamed, occasionally moist tortilla; unspectacular, overexposed, vaguely Spanish rice; a clean run of hot bites; and some fine, if under-represented cuts of chicken. Enjoy black beans? You’ll certainly dig Jasmin’s, where blacks are your sole option – austere, but ultimately insult-proof in the end. Cheese provided the most worry, with more than a few semi-melted grates of cheddar playing off better melted pieces of jack. While not completely sucking, the ingredient mix failed to integrate the beans and considerable jalapeño slices into the slab-at-large. Our panel’s frosty reaction? Hrumph. Meanwhile, titanic spicing blew the lid off our burrichter scale, as a heaping helping of all-business salsa brought scorching heat, top to bottom. Finally, plenty of chopped onion, delicious guacamole, and all that jalapeño brought forth much veggie-sponsored joy. It didn’t post a winning final rating, but this meal sported intangible credibility that lent an air of overachievement so elusive in San Francisco’s mustache-based burrito economy.

With three perfect ratings (ingredient mix, temperature, burstage abatement) under its sizable belt, you’d expect Jasmin’s beanless breakfast slab to have fared better overall. But an over-reliance on vegetables – specifically, sliced carrot – a dearth of sauce, irrelevant bits of ham, and inconsistent spice acted as ballast to this burrito’s hot air balloon. We love veggies in our burritos any time of day, and carrot is a totally respectable food in its own right...but its heavy inclusion here had to be questioned. Elsewhere, the scrambled eggs – generally the wild card in any breakfast burrito - were fine, while the size and cheesiness sent us out the door in a fine enough mood.